Salal (Gaultheria shallon) is one of the most abundant shrubs that we're blessed with in coastal B.C., and you may have noticed that they're becoming chock-full of tasty purple berries these days. It grows from low to medium elevations in wet or dry forests, rocky bluffs, or near wetlands or other openings; but seems to do best in moist, well-drained areas. The branches are recognizable by their interesting pattern of angling slightly between successive leaves, which are themselves thick, evergreen, and 5-10 cm long. Flowers are white (sometimes pinkish) little urns, and fruits are bluish-purple and, while tasty, feel hairy or sticky to the touch. Both grow in a line of 5-15 along the branch tips.

Historically and currently the berries have been eaten fresh, dried, or in preserves. In most parts of the Pacific Northwest coast salal was the most plentiful and important fruit. The Kwakwaka'wakw ate them dipped in eulechon grease, the Haida used them to thicken salmon eggs, and the Ditidaht chewed young leaves to suppress hunger. Branches have been used in pit-cooking and added as flavouring in fish soup.

Traditionally the leaves were used as a stomach tonic for diarrhea and to treat coughs and tuberculosis; modern medicine points to their antioxidant properties; and a poultice made from the leaves can be used to ease insect stings, cuts or burns.

Salal is a now a major commercial species: it comprises about 90% of the province's floral green exports and brings in millions of dollars annually, making it the second most important non-timber forest product (after mushrooms) in B.C. Salal harvested for floral arrangements is most highly prized when it consists of dark green leaves free of blemishes, usually from plants growing deeper in the forest.

This article only scratches the surface of this phenomenal plant; if you're interested in delving deeper, first make up a batch of wild salal-cranberry relish (recipe below), and then pick up a copy of the book "Salal- Listening for the Northwest Understory" by Laurie Ricou (NeWest Press).

Recipe: wild salal-cranberry relish (courtesy Seattle Times)

Rind of 1 orange (coarsely grated)
3/4 cup sugar
3 cups salal berries (tiny berry stems are okay)
3 cups cranberries (raw, whole)

Cook all ingredients on low heat until the berries are tender, and feel free to add a pinch of cinnamon or ginger. Tastes great served with salmon!